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Train to Machu Picchu

After Cusco, we transferred to the town of Aguas Calientes (aka Machu Picchu Pueblo) as our base for exploring Machu Picchu. Aguas Calientes is situated a couple miles from Machu Picchu, and is the main way in and out of the ruins. The town exists only to serve the Machu Picchu tourism industry. Squished between […]

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Road trip

There are a number of important (and impressive) Incan archaeological sites within a couple hours’ drive of Cusco. We hired a guide and driver for a day to drive us to a couple of these sites. A private tour let us set the itinerary and pace, and for our family of four the price was […]

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Watercraft of Titicaca

I’m a big fan of ships, boats, and being on the water (those two nights in the Galapagos notwithstanding). I’m also fascinated by the logistics of human settlement and life in remote or difficult-to-access places. Titicaca is a confluence of these two interests. Some context: Lake Titicaca is known as the highest navigable lake in […]

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Locro de papa

We had a group cooking lesson at the Yanapuma Spanish School. We learned to make locro de papa, a traditional Ecuadorian potato-based soup with queso fresco and avocado. The recipe seems to be slightly different everywhere, and amounts below are “to taste” – no measuring spoons here! The result is a thick, filling soup. We’ve […]

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Yanapuma Spanish School

We spent the mornings of our two weeks in Cuenca at the excellent Yanapuma Spanish School. While each of us has had varying amounts of formal Spanish instruction, Lauren and I haven’t studied Spanish for about 20 years and the boys are still beginners. We opted for private lessons for the boys. Their wonderful instructor […]